Circular Saw – We bought Porter Cable 20V tools MANY years ago and simply have kept with the brand. I LOVED this little guy instead of a larger corded unit – it was perfect for this job and did just fine cutting through 3/4″ MDF (as long as my battery wasn’t low).

Sander – I bought a sander at Harbor Freight, but this one looks similar and maybe a little better on trying to capture dust. The HF one was worthless to capture dust. Just a thought! I tend to buy less expensive since we won’t use these often. Use it for cleaning up my routed edges, sanding bondo, and sanding between basecoats and epoxy pours

Straight Edge – Since most of my cuts were less than 4′, a straight edge around there would have been good. We had our old 8′ version but I also used some stock aluminum we had available as well during this project!

Clamps – To hold down the straight edge while using the circular or jig saw. Just have these available. In this picture I was holding the wood while routing the edges.

Jig Saw – To cut out nice rounded corners and to cut out sink opening (and oven opening in our case).

Drill and Drill Set – As we said before, we have these 20V Porter Cable tools from our old home and they’ve been holding up (bought in 2017!). You’ll need a drill and drill set to drill holes for cutting out your sinks and cutting out holes for your faucets (with hole saws).

23 AWG Micro Pin Nailer – We bought this guy at Harbor Freight again – I mean how often are you going to use this thing, right? You will need this to hold on the edges of your countertops (if you’re doing that). You’ll also need an air compressor of some sort and air line. We also bought a regulator so I could dial in the pressure better (or else I would have had no control over how far the pins went in).

Brooms, Blowers, Dustpan – to keep your area as clean as possible before starting to use the epoxy. I was in a shed and had to spend a good amount of time cleaning the area and letting the dust settle multiple times before I thought it was decent enough for epoxy. And even then I had several dust particles. So, just be aware… The blower helped with getting large amounts out of the shed!

Bernzomatic Torch Head – We were able to borrow this torch head from Gary’s dad. We did

Kreg Mini Jig Kit – I purchased this mini jig to help me add several 1x2s in the cabinets after removing the countertops. Additional bracing was needed on our cabinets (at least we thought so), after several pieces were damaged during the removal of the old countertops. This was a small and effective solution to add bracing (and a new base for our oven). Maybe not needed, but recommended!

MDF – I used a 3/4″ MDF 4’x8′ sheet for this project. I was able to get our kitchen, bathroom, living room table, and mantle in this sheet along with 1″ pieces for the edges and enough for 2 sample pieces. I used a 1/4″ 2×4′ sheet for our backsplashes (to save cost and a little weight)

1/4″ nap Roller Kit – I ended up buying this from StoneCoat Countertops, they had a decent price but you could also get it at one of the big box stores. Be aware these are 6.5″ wide, so make sure to get the right size paint try

They recommend 1/4″ nap for the Ultimate Top Coat (UTC), so I got these. I did use some of my remaining Whizzflock rollers (from Lowes) for putting the undercoat paint on as well as the Redgard rubber membrane stuff. Have at least 2 of the rollers, though – it helps!

And don’t forget a paint tray – One trick I learned on the K3 Designs videos is to use Press and Seal to line the paint tray to keep it clean and easy to get rid of excess paint or UTC. That was an AWESOME tip!

Redgard – The link is for Amazon, but I would recommend buying this at your local hardware store. It’s heavy. Or find me – I have a TON extra since you can only buy these in 1 gallon sizes and I used maybe a few cups. Ah well. And not surprisingly, it’s pretty expensive.

Epoxy Undercoat – I used this epoxy undercoat on some of my countertops. On a few (including my kitchen countertop), I also used some of the sample paint for the cabinets I didn’t use. BUT I had to wait a full 24 hours before starting to use the epoxy on that sample paint. This stuff was reasonable in price and could start epoxying sooner, which was a benefit.

1×2″ Pine Boards – I used these to add some support to my cabinets after taking off the existing countertops. Some of the old 1x2s were damaged during the removal of the countertop, and some looked like additional bracing might be really helpful. I added these to the cabinets using the Kreg Mini Pocket Hole Kit I mentioned above.

Titebond II Wood Glue – The folks at StoneCoat Countertops recommended this wood glue to add the edges to the countertops. It was inexpensive so I just bought it.

1″ 23AWG Micro Pin Nails – I’m sure you can get these cheaper at your local hardware store, but they are also available on Amazon if you need them.

Bondo Filler and Bondo Spreaders – I’d also recommend getting these at your local hardware store (in the auto section). Probably cheaper.

White Exotic Marble Epoxy Kit – I ended up buying this kit mainly since the colorants and the mica powders were what I was looking for. I also wanted to make sure I got the Art Coat. There may be better kits out there for you, so take a peek.

I also ordered the pearl mica powder which added some color variation in my base epoxy coat and then also bought the brown colorant with some bronze mica powder from Amazon since StoneCoat was out of their brown mica powder.

I bought all of these since I wasn’t sure really what I wanted. But I ended up using all of them in my countertops!

Note: The red color in my video was from this coffee mica powder from Amazon. That’s the one I DIDN’T use.

Epoxy Mixer Paddles – I wish I would have bought these instead of the gigantically long one I found at the local hardware store. And having more than one would have been helpful as well. Lesson learned!